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Top secret! The first self-produced movement of Tudor's mysterious vanishing culture

For nearly 20 years, the topic of "rags to riches" has been a hot topic in the clock world. TUDOR Clair de Rose M35500-0004 Self-made sports watches, a narrow definition of the design, research and development, production movement of watch brands, rather than outsourcing to a third party. Many Cousins have taken the homemade movement as a standard, believing that the brand of homemade movement is strong and not worth buying without homemade. As a result of the spread of this idea, many watch companies have abandoned the traditional Swiss division of watchmaking and embarked on their own path of movement, including Tudor rudders.

In February 1926, the watchmaker "Veuve de Philippe Huther" registered the trademark "Turtler" for Hans Wilsdorf in Geneva, TUDOR Black Bay Bronze M79250BA-0001 Switzerland. Wilsdorf obtained exclusive use rights from the distributor. Hans Wilsdorf is the founder of the Rolex brand. The original reason for registering the Tudor trademark was simple: "Make some watches to dealers, sell them at a relatively popular price, but as trustworthy as Rolex."

Therefore, from the beginning, the Tudor (watch) brand was designed to be "cost-effective".

Backed by Rolex, Tudor naturally gets a lot of support, TUDOR Royal M28403-0009 such as the oyster case that can be equipped with Rolex patents, and the shared after-sales service center..... However, for the key movements, Tudor did not use the same "self-produced movements" as Rolex, but purchased unified movements from companies and associations such as ETA, FEF, and AS.

In 2015, the official government of TUDOR announced the launch of the first Tudor self-produced movement MT5612, and the "MT" on the MT5612 model computing movement is the Chinese representative of "Manufacture TUDOR" (Tudor self-produced). With a certain time display and dynamic storage display system functions, while we also have a prompt calendar, stop seconds, 70 hours of power and storage.

In addition, the 5612 movement is equipped with a diamagnetic silicon hairpin, a taperless screw trimmer, and is certified by the COSC Observatory in Switzerland.

This year, Tudor introduced the smaller and thinner 5402 movement. What is remarkable is that this is a new self-made movement. What's even more amazing is that Tudor has a power reserve of up to 70 hours for the smaller and thinner movement.

This is possible because Royal Rudder designs gear trains that are more compact and use smaller balance wheels in an attempt to save more space to store more energy in the wind-up box.

So simply put, Tudor is now equipped with four main mechanical movements, namely, the long-term ETA movement, the first self-produced MT56 series movement released in 2015, the small-size MT54 series movement released in 2018, and our "Truth!" The Tudor endorsed by Jay Chou changed to the SW movement introduced in the SW Movement.

But what can not be known is that Tudor in fact, in addition to our MT56 series and MT54 series movement, there is a self-produced movement with a mysterious culture disappearing!

This action is Cal. T8050 code name, Prinstic. 19.30 mm diameter, 4.65 mm thick, 288000VPH, with a large three-pin time display and calendar. Automatic two-way winding, power storage up to 43 hours, pull out the table can stop seconds, easy to set the time. In addition to the T80050, there is also an undated three-pin display of sport, Carl. T8008.

Recently the core candidate Watchoosy after unremitting efforts finally got a top secret official internal technical information of Tudor. On the cover, it is clearly stated that it was born as early as 2002. This also means that Tudor's first self-produced movement is not the MT5612, which was released in 2015, but this Cal. T8050

According to official internal technical data, we have a clear picture of this Carl. The T8050 is tiny at 19.30 mm. This sport is actually meant to replace the ETA 2671, which is usually used for women's watches. Although there were rumors that the T8050 was modified based on the ETA2671, in fact it was not at all, and the underlying board structure was different.

Rolex and Tudor's automatic machinery usually adopts the "double reverse wheel" structure. As long as the watch is worn on the wrist, whether the balance wheel is turned left or right, the reversing wheel can classify the direction of energy transfer into the same, and is continuously stored in the clockwork.

The biggest difference in the development of this T8050 movement is mainly in its automatic winding part, although we are also "double-reversing wheels", but the designer of Tudor changed the original "horizontal can be placed" design to "overlap". Although China does not need to know the benefits of such a design, it can be determined that its follow-up has brought a lot of trouble. That is, when long-term funds are used or subjected to severe social shocks, the two "check" components above the automatic pivot will fall off (the red arrow points to the analysis above). Because there is no upper and lower ruby support between them to fix, it is relatively easy to cause damage.

Some of his friends may say that they have never seen or heard of this T8050 campaign before. Although there are official technical documents proving that it was probably just an experimental movement from the imperial rudder, and was not sold, it was not strictly a homemade movement.

But in fact, the T8050 and its brother T8008 movements have been officially released, carrying the Princess series and Archeco series. It was only shortly after the launch that Tudor discovered the flaws in their design, so production and promotion were stopped, and only a small number of watches were sold. Naturally, Tudor's first self-produced movement mysteriously disappeared, unknown to the public, or even never heard of.

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